Rachael K. Esthetician & Laser Professional
Do I need to go to the Derm for this? What’s going on with Samantha on Sex and the City, how could Anyone get a peel after that fiasco? Am I a product-junky, why are you selling me this? I sat down with Rachael K., one of our most senior, and without a question, talented assets to AZIZ – to uncover not only her current product obsessions and treatment specialties that the stars are using to look their best, but some REAL Q&A’s that beauty articles wont tell you, and facial brochures gloss over. Are you ready for the barenaked truth? Let’s dive in!
What should clients expect when they come to you for a Skin Analysis or a Skin Consultation?
A serious discussion about the client’s challenges, results oriented protocols and home care regimens. Is it acne?” Rosacea? Hyper pigmentation? Or age management? We will sit down and talk about the client’s needs, goals and challenges. Often times people think they need to seek the advice of a dermatologist for these issues, but real, effective help may very well be waiting for them right in my treatment room. Sure, my client can always come in to just relax , but that investment in time and money can be used to make truly beneficial changes in the skin.
What makes it different from the derm’s office?
Doctors are wonderful people, and I have an enormous amount of respect for the years of education they have endured it get that MD. But, ultimately, doctor’s, even derms are trained to do a couple of things: cut , prescribe, or stitch. So, those are very good skills, if you need something cut off of you, or out of you, if your situation is so dire you need a prescription, or you are bleeding profusely. But, for the most part – they, EVEN your dermatologist, are NOT trained in day to day skin care. They may not understand the basic ingredients for sunblock (rather than sunscreen) , or why a very popular over the counter milky style cleanser is inappropriate. They don’t understand, because that’s not what they were trained to do. Something else to ask, should you feel more comfortable going to the Doctor’s office for your treatment, is “who is going to perform the treatment?” Rarely will it be the dermatologist. It’s most often their assistant. So, ask what is the assistant’s background. So often, the assistant is not an esthetician and has no training in the skin or skin care, but rather some one who is working under the Dr. license.
What piece of advice can you give to clients that are on the fence or considering doing something “drastic” like a peel?
Peels range from very light, that have no recovery, to very deep, that will require some social down time. The variables are: what acid is being used? Some acids have a large molecule, some a smaller molecule. The smaller the molecule, the deeper the peel.
Next, what is the percentage of acid in the peel? Peels range in percentage from 20 to 80 percent. There are no 100 % peels. So, you can see that a 60% Lactic peel will be deeper then a 20% peel from the same manufacturer. The last variable is the pH of the peel. A 20 % peel with a pH of 2.7 will be more effective then the same peel with a pH of 3. Now I know that a very popular sitcom featured a story about a character getting a peel gone awry, and that’s a very funny situation done completely for dramatic effect. There’s no comedic value in that Sex and the City gal getting a beauty treatment and looking amazing. Most often, your co-workers will just notice that your skin looks brighter and fresher.
Do we really need the products to help us with our skin, or can we get by with getting a facial once a month?
70 percent of a client’s results will come from their home care regimen. Think about it, your esthetician will work on the skin for about an hour once a month. It’s the client’s job to take care of the skin all those other hours. It’s a little bit like working out with a trainer to reach fitness goals. What sort of results would you expect if you only worked out once a month with your trainer? Another benefit of using professional home care is that it allows the esthetician to work more effectively because the skin is already prepared for the treatment. Basically, you are getting more treatment from your treatment.
Which CosMedix product are you currently obsessed with?
The Serum 16. It’s a very powerful exfoliant, but gentle to the skin. CosMedix has taken their retinol and encapsulated it in a “candy coating” , in layman’s terms. What that means is that the cell doesn’t know that it’s getting a strong dose of exfoliant because it thinks it getting a treat instead. You know the old adage; a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down. Daily exfoliation of the skin is one of the most necessary components of home care. It will stimulate cell turn over, important for age management because cell turn over slows dramatically as we mature (from a 28 day migration cycle to 90 days). It’s also very efficacious when dealing with acneic conditions , because the dead, keritinized cells are no longer glued to the surface of the skin clogging the pores.
What service should someone get from YOU?
That will depend on the client’s needs and concerns. I love photofacials for hyperpigmentation, sun damage, vascular lesions, collagen production and reducing redness over all. The Medi-facial for very acneically active skin that needs more than a few extractions. Microdermabraision for younger, non inflamed skin that has uneven texture, or darker skin types that are challenged with maturing skin, but are not good candidates for photofacial… Peels for resurfacing. Pretty much anything that will make visable changes in the skin. The Fire and Ice enzyme peel and the Hydrafacial for glowing, red-carpet-ready skin now, when social down time is not an option.
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